When tomatoes are cooked for a short time the flavour remains delicate; the longer they are cooked, as in the sauce recipe, the more piquant they become. A teaspoon of sugar helps to bring out the sweetness. When you think how popular tomato sauce is, I'm amazed more of us don't make our own - it's so simple. Just peel and deseed the tomatoes or chop and push through a sieve or colander - which I have done here. Then toss everything into a large pot and cook away. It couldn't be easier and is a great way to use all those tomatoes in the garden. If you like your sauce to be really thick, use a little cornflour just before it finishes cooking, but do remember it will thicken as it cools.