As to why milk should be added, I believe it adds an almost fatty layer to the minced meat pieces as they’re cooked. The milk is reduced before the wine (I use white) and tomato puree are added. If you make a batch with milk, and one without (should you have the time or inclination) you will notice a difference. I do prefer the milky one.

To make an authentic bolognese sauce — and this is according to various Italian friends over the years — you should saute a garlic- free soffritto (see my last column) in butter to which you also add finely diced pancetta or fatty bacon. Add lean coarse-minced beef (although a mix of 80 per cent beef and 20 per cent lean pork is also considered okay) and cook out so it’s all nice and crumbly. Then add a handful of chopped chicken livers — although these are optional they add a real richness to the sauce and I suggest you make the extra effort to add them. Add a cup of milk for every 500g beef and stir it in, then cook over rapid simmer, stirring occasionally, until it has evaporated. Add white wine, and either chopped plum tomatoes or tomato passata, and season lightly (you will always add more seasoning once finished) then cook over a gentle simmer with a lid slightly ajar, for two hours. You can also cook it in the oven set to 125C — which can be easier to control. Serve with grated parmesan on top.

The last points worth noting are that in Emilia Romagna, the region Bologna is located, you will never be served bolognese sauce, or ragu as they call it, with spaghetti. It will come with tagliatelle. Also, unlike in New Zealand where we serve pasta as a main course, pasta in Italy will always be a smaller portion known as primo — which is served before the actual main course.

Do what you want of course but maybe just don’t say it’s traditional!